Getting a new 1 10 monster truck body is basically the RC equivalent of getting a fresh haircut, but way more fun and significantly more permanent if you mess up the paint. Whether you've absolutely shredded your stock shell after a few too many backflip attempts or you're just tired of looking like every other truck at the local park, swapping the body is the quickest way to make the rig your own.
It's funny how a simple piece of clear plastic can completely change the personality of a truck. You can go from a sleek, modern stadium racer look to a rugged, old-school 70s pickup just by swapping four body clips. But, as anyone who has been in this hobby for more than a week knows, picking out a new shell isn't always as simple as grabbing the first one you see on the shelf. There's a bit of a learning curve to getting that perfect fit and finish.
Finding the Right Fit for Your Chassis
The term "1/10 scale" is honestly a bit of a lie in the RC world. If you put a 1/10 scale rock crawler next to a 1/10 scale monster truck, they look like they belong to completely different species. Because of that, when you're shopping for a 1 10 monster truck body, you really have to pay attention to the dimensions, specifically the wheelbase and the width.
Most standard monster trucks like the Traxxas Stampede or the Arrma Granite have a specific footprint. If you buy a body meant for a long-wheelbase desert truck, the wheel wells aren't going to line up with your tires, and it's going to look ridiculous—and not in a good way. Always check the specs for the "wheelbase" (the distance from the center of the front wheel to the center of the rear wheel). Most 1/10 monster trucks hover around the 10.5 to 11-inch mark, but it varies.
Also, don't forget about the width. If the body is too narrow, your tires are going to rub against the Lexan every time you turn or the suspension compresses. You can usually trim the wheel wells a bit extra to compensate, but it's a lot easier to just buy a body that's wide enough to begin with.
Lexan vs. Hard Plastic
Most of what you'll find when looking for a 1 10 monster truck body is made of polycarbonate, often called Lexan. This stuff is the gold standard for a reason. It's incredibly lightweight, and it flexes during a crash. Since monster trucks spend a good chunk of their lives upside down or tumbling across gravel, that flexibility is a lifesaver. A hard plastic body might look more realistic, but it'll crack or shatter the first time you send it over a big jump and fail the landing.
The downside to Lexan is that you have to paint it from the inside. This is a bit of a mind-trip for beginners because you have to apply your decals or detail colors first and your main coat last. It feels backwards, but it's actually great because the plastic shell acts as a built-in clear coat. You can scratch the outside of the truck all day long, and the paint stays protected on the inside.
The Art of the Paint Job
Once you've got your clear 1 10 monster truck body, the real work begins. If you're a pro, you might reach for an airbrush, but for most of us, "rattle cans" of polycarbonate-specific paint do the trick just fine. Just a heads up: don't use regular spray paint from the hardware store. It doesn't bond to Lexan correctly and will literally flake off in giant chunks the first time the body flexes.
Before you even think about shaking a paint can, you've got to wash the inside of the body. There's usually a thin oily film left over from the manufacturing process called "mold release." If you don't wash that off with some basic dish soap and warm water, your paint is going to have a hard time sticking.
Masking and Preparation
Masking is where the magic (or the frustration) happens. Most bodies come with window masks, which is a huge help. You stick those on the inside first so your windows stay clear. If you want stripes or flame designs, you'll need some high-quality masking tape. Take your time here. Use a fingernail or a plastic tool to burnish the edges of the tape so the paint doesn't bleed through. There's nothing worse than pulling off your tape and seeing a "fuzzy" line where you wanted a crisp one.
Spraying the Layers
When you start spraying, patience is your best friend. It's tempting to try and cover the whole thing in one thick coat, but that's a recipe for runs and drips. Do three or four light, misty coats. It'll look transparent and terrible at first, but it builds up.
A pro tip for a 1 10 monster truck body is to "back" your paint. If you're painting the truck bright red, once you've got a good even coat, spray a layer of white or silver over it. This makes the color pop and prevents it from looking translucent when the sun hits it. If you're going for a darker look, back it with black.
Mounting and Cutting
After the paint is dry (seriously, wait for it to dry), you've got to cut the thing out. Most people use curved Lexan scissors. They're awkward at first, but they make following the wheel arches so much easier than straight scissors. For the body post holes, please, do yourself a favor and get a body reamer. Using a drill bit usually results in jagged edges that eventually turn into cracks. A reamer makes perfectly circular, smooth holes.
If you hate the look of body clips poking through your hood, you can look into magnetic mounts or Velcro systems. They keep the 1 10 monster truck body looking "scale" and clean, though they might pop off more easily during a 30-mph cartwheel.
Making It Last
Monster trucks are meant to be thrashed, but that doesn't mean you want your new body to fall apart in a week. There's an old trick involving drywall tape and a product called Shoe Goo. You apply the tape to the high-stress areas on the inside—like the corners, the hood, and around the body post holes—and then spread a layer of Shoe Goo over it. Once it cures, it creates a sort of reinforced "exoskeleton" that makes the body significantly tougher. It adds a bit of weight, but for a basher, it's worth the trade-off.
Choosing Your Style
The best part about the 1 10 monster truck body market is the variety. You can go for the "licensed" look, which means the body is an official replica of a Ford F-150, a Chevy Silverado, or even a Dodge Ram. These look amazing and satisfy that itch for realism.
On the other hand, you have "unlicensed" or custom designs that look like futuristic SUVs or specialized racing trucks. Some companies even make "vintage" bodies that mimic the classic Bigfoot-style trucks from the 1980s. Those are great if you're doing a "retro" build with big cheesy chrome wheels and a bunch of light bars.
At the end of the day, your 1 10 monster truck body is the personality of your rig. It's the first thing people see when you pull it out of your car, and it's what you're going to be staring at while you're ripping through the dirt. Whether you go for a showroom-quality multi-color masterpiece or a quick one-color "bash shell," just make sure it's something you're stoked to drive. After all, the whole point of this hobby is to have something that looks cool while it's doing something ridiculous.